Day 22: From Virpazar (Montenegro) to Shkodra (Albania) (74 km, 1250 vm)

I had a relatively late start today but last night a massive thunderstorm woke me up. It lasted at least an hour and at some point had its centre in Vispazar. With all the mountains around and the echoes it was extremely loud. So I left at around 7:15. Cycling along the lake did not mean that it was flat. The lake Skadar is surrounded by quite high mountains and the road was rising and falling between sea level and around 500 metres. So the day started with a quite steep 500 metre climb. I could feel my legs from all the climbing from yesterday and overall didn’t quite get into the flow. The route itself though was very remote and, yet again, very scenic and beautiful. The higher I got the nicer the view across the lake became. At some point the road was carved into the rock front with a sheer drop down to the lake. I often cycled only 50 metres to stop again and take pictures.

After the 2nd of 3 big climbs I stopped at a panoramic view point. Up there was one of the little stalls that sell homemade produce and soft drinks. An old lady sold me a coke and since she was so adamant I also bought some homemade syrup. I wonder if I will carry that bottle all the way to Greece now. While I was drinking my coke she came out and gave me two cooked potatoes and homemade cheese. That was her lunch as well. We conversed without a common language. She talked a lot I pretended that I understood.

From there on followed a longer downhill. The road had so many bumps and potholes that I couldn’t go to fast. When I arrived in Ostros, a small town but with some life to it, I had another break at a café. I ordered an ice coffee but the waiter also brought 2 scoops of ice cream on the side. He said “You look like you need it”. It is amazing how friendly the people are her. After Ostros followed another long and steep climb to the highest point of today. From there I had a stunning view across the whole lake and I already saw the city of Skadar. It was quite close, yet so far as you could not descend directly. From there I had to go down the other direction until I hit the main road.

Feeling quite exhausted I took another half hour break at a gas station having a coffee and another coke. Some Albanians chatted to me about my travel and wished me good luck on the way. I left shortly after them. The Albanian boarder was only 7 kilometres form there. When I arrived there there was very long queue of cars. The border control took quite some time. I cycled passed all the cars and snuck into the front of the queue.

There I was. In Albania. Since there was no country sign I cycled on and took a picture of the first Albanian flag I came across instead. About 45 minutes later I arrived in Skadar. Feeling absolutely shattered I booked a nice hotel. I needed that now. And when I arrived at the hotel I booked a massage on top of it.

I went for a walk across the old part of town. Its centre is a long and quite nice promenade with shops and bars. Once you go one or two blocks off you can see quite run down buildings. It still is a quite charming place with seemingly some tourists and very friendly people. When I got back to the hotel I got my massage from a guy called Albi. He actually works with some Albanian sport teams and really knew how to find the painful spots in my legs. I hope that that is going to pay off when I cycle tomorrow.

I already checked my route for tomorrow which for a change seems to be rather flat. I hope I can make some distance tomorrow. Maybe 3 or 4 more days and I will arrive in Greece.