Day 27: From Himarë to Ksamil (65 km, 1060 vm)

There is nothing like starting your day with a short swim in the sea. Wakes you up and gets you fresh right away. I sat on the bike at around 6:45. On the way out of Himarë there was hardly any traffic. The route profile was about the same as yesterday. Very steep ascents and descents. Again the 10 % ascents signs that just meant that the road would have 10 % incline or more. The ascents felt long and painful the descents steep and short. The road was meandering around various beautiful bays and every time I looked back my starting point didn’t seem very far away. Once I got some altitude the views across the bays and along the shoreline were stunning. Especially on the descents I took quite some breaks to take pictures.

I didn’t prepare any breakfast so after an hour of cycling I stopped in Queparo to have an omelette with cheese and bread and a coffee. Cycling along the coast line is something very special. The endless views across the sea and the rough shoreline had something very calming. And the higher you got the farther away the horizon seemed to be.

Once I got to Lukova the road headed inland and was running along a mountain range that separated the sea from the main land. Once you couldn’t see the the sea anymore the atmosphere changed drastically. My views focussed on the mountains in the distance that were, due to the slight haziness just silhouettes of themselves. Every range was set slightly apart from the next one by a slide change in colour or transparency. That’s why you just have to love the mountains. The look different every time the light or time of day changes. The ascents became more moderate and the ride therefore even more enjoyable.

Around Saranda, a bigger city with a port, I took a short coffee break. I heard that this city is not a place to stay at, so I kept my eyes on a town called Ksamil, located between the sea and a lake-like bay of the sea which is almost entirely cut off through mountains. Shortly before I arrived in Ksamil I found a little camp ground right on the beach. They also had their own tents with beds inside set up and it was so cheap that I took one of those. Saves me from setting up my own. The tent entrance looks right out across the sea. Best thing: There are only three of those tents. That’s the whole camp ground. I understand why this place is called Glamour Camping Paradise.

Even though I only cycled 65 kilometres I felt quite exhausted with all the steep inclines. Overall I ended up making more than 1000 vertical metres again. So staying here at the beach seemed like the right treat. And the best thing: I can see the island Corfu right across from me. My destination right in front of my eyes. Feels good!

After a beer and lunch I tried to take a nap in the tent but it was too hot. So I went into town, got a hair cut for 4 Euros and wondered around a bit. I met another International School Teacher form Shanghai who was spending his holidays in Greece, Albania and Montenegro. We had a beer together and chatted a bit before I headed back to the camp to watch the sunset, probably the most beautiful one I have ever seen. While I am writing this I am still gazing at the darkening red and purple of the few cirrostratus clouds on the horizon. Staying on this campsite was a real lucky move. The town of Ksamil is very busy with tourists and the beaches full of people. Here at the private beach there were hardly any people. The restaurant was amazing, probably the best food I had on my way.

So what’s happening from here? The next stop will be Greece. I am still wondering if I should stay another night here. I am looking forward to arriving but I don’t want to arrive at the same time. The trip with all its ups and downs has been so great that I don’t really want it to end. Let’s see how I feel tomorrow.