Day 21: From Kotor to Virpazar (87 km, 1600 vm)

Arriving in Virpazar waking up this morning and starting to cycle seems so far away. The scenery changed so much during this ride today that it is hard to believe that I saw everything in just one day. But let’s start at the beginning.

I started cycling at 6:15 today. Right when I left a big cruise ship was pulling into the bay. A very majestic site. After I went left Kotor the road started ascending. After about 300 vertical metres I turned into the Panaroma route, a pass road that is supposed to be one of the most scenic roads in Montenegro. And it is. In 25 serpentine turns the road curls up the mountain at the end of the bay. A rock front that you would not think you could build a road into. The view of my GPS looked funny. Just a zig-zig of road that never seemed to end. With every turn and elevation gained the views across the bay and out over the Adriatic sea became more stunning. At around 700 metres I started to get a view of across the mountain range on the other side and at every turn I felt like I had to stop and take pictures. Another plus was that there was hardly any traffic as cars exit the bay through a long tunnel.

At around 800 metres there was little kiosk. I had a stop there. Two cars had stopped there as well taking pictures. Two boys and a father were wearing the national football jersey. They passed me in the car before waving a huge Montenegrin flag out of the window. I talked a bit with them and found out that today is the Montenegrin National Day to celebrate independence. After a short chat I cycled on. When the road flattened out a bit I took a rest at a restaurant with a great panoramic view. Just when I finished my first coffee a car from Miesbach, Bavaria, pulled into the parking lot. When they came to the panorama terrace we had a quick chat and they sat down at my table. Andreas and Gabi are travelling around with their car and their bikes for the next few months. They were great company. It is always nice to get to know some people along the way. Thanks, Andreas and Gabi.

From the the road ascended a bit more before it descended for about 100 metres followed by the last climb. Once I reached the top I had already 1200 vertical meteres. Having left the bay behind the landscape changed dramatically with a more alpine feel.

The decent to Cetinje was steep and quick. From there I had to climb a bit along the main road before I went on another remote little tarmac road with more potholes than road. Despite all downhill I had to take it quite slowly as you could never foresee where the next bigger hole would be. Here again absolutely no cars. Having arrived in the valley I now was in the district of lake Skadar, a national park. From the little town called Rijeka Crnojevića you could not see the lake but just a little stream with tourist boats offering rides out onto the lake. I had a coke in one of restaurants there before I cycled on. From here road starting ascending again for about 300 metres. Shortly after I started the climb I got the first glimpses of the lake and the further I gained elevation the more impressive the views were across the seemingly endless lake. With huge fields of sea roses along the shore and partly far into the lake this natural habitat seemed like out of this world, or at least his continent. If you didn’t know any better you could think you were somewhere in Africa. Again I stopped multiple times to take pictures and to admire the view.

I booked myself a little place in a town called Vispazar – I think I am really done camping now – and before the final decent to the town (the lake is at around 40 metres above sea level) I came by one of these many little road shops that sell home made produce, mainly local honey. I didn’t feel like stopping but the guy called me in and since there was another German guy with him I took another break. Right upon entering the yard of his house I was welcomed with a Slivowitz, a local Schnaps, and then had a coffee. We chatted a bit – I speak any Montenegrin, he didn’t speak any English or German, but we still had a good time.

The last few kilometres were all downhill and when I arrived in Vizpazar – quite a touristic place where many people are driven to by bus to take one of the boat tours – I was approached by a guy who arranges boat tours. Even though quite tired I booked one. I am probably only here once so I might as well make the most of it. I checked into the apartment, did my washing, had a shower and went for the tour. The boat made its way through the high reed to get out on the lake. The lake itself is huge. If you didn’t know any better you could think it is part of the sea. In the far distance you could see the Albanian mountain shore, my goal for tomorrow.

Once we got back I went for dinner and now I will start planning my tour for tomorrow. The end point will definitely be in Albania, I just don’t know where yet.